More tasting room than bar, Mezcaloteca approaches mezcal almost as an education. Bottles from small producers line the shelves, and guided tastings move between different agaves, villages and production methods.

Champagne changes character in Baja—or perhaps we do. The sunlight is sharper, the Pacific more theatrical, and the Sea of Cortez has the good manners to sparkle back. Even a familiar bottle seems more compelling when served within reach of the sand.